Sunday, 20 September 2009

New York Spring/Summer 2010 Collections, Part 2/2

1) Marc Jacobs

Images from Style.com - click to see entire collection.

The underwear as outerwear may have been something of a seen-before yawn moment, but otherwise Marc Jacobs’ spring/summer 2010 collection felt fresh, interesting and original. In an enormous improvement from the brash orgy of 80s references which saturated his last collection, Jacobs worked a sort of East meets West theme, characterised by a real lightness and fluidity. It was a veritable breath of fresh air after the day-glo headache of fall/winter 09. The cut was beautiful, the aesthetic was rich but never heavy, and there was a real energy to it all. Wear-ability was evidently not high on the agenda, but this collection, which reminded us what we love about fashion, will doubtless do no harm in creating a suitably haute image, needed to shift those all-important bags, sunglasses and fragrances.

2) Jason Wu

Images from Style.com - click to see entire collection.

For SS10, Jason Wu presented luxurious interpretations of American casuals, followed by rich eveningwear confections. The collection was elegant, serious (a hint more fun or quirkiness perhaps wouldn’t have gone amiss), and deceptively simple looking with its clean lines. The fabrics were rich and well selected, and the colour pallet included decisive splashes of red, yellow, purple and lime green.

3) Zac Posen

Images from Style.com - click to see entire collection.

Zac Posen showed a bright, upbeat collection, with exuberant colours and prints, and particularly strong glamorous eveningwear. The collection was slightly limited in scope, but we enjoyed the 60s Op Art references.

4) Mulberry

Images from Style.com - click to see entire collection.

It was all about the big hair at Mulberry (which at times was more interesting than the clothes themselves), although creative director Emma Hill did prove that there is more to the British brand than bags and leather goods. The collection veered towards the young and hip, with tiny shorts, high hemlines, neon accessories, and that sort of cutesy-with-a-twist, which brands like Luella and PPQ have championed. We can imagine this collection going down very well with London’s It girls.

5) Y-3

Images from Style.com - click to see entire collection.

For his sportswear line, Y-3, Yohji Yamamoto used the motif of football (soccer) goal nets which, combined with Y-3’s characteristic asymmetric draping, sporty-tailored look, and ‘techno’ edge, led to a cool, well executed collection with a sort 90s vibe to it (all those big logos and relaxed silhouettes).

6) Michael Kors

Images from Style.com - click to see entire collection.

The inimitable Cathy Horyn of the New York Times was unimpressed by Michael Kors’ spring/summer 2010 collection, saying it “really had to stretch to say upscale. The shades of wisteria and mint were unappealing, the crinkled, so-called “techno” fabrics probably have middle-market cousins somewhere. Designers like to deconstruct things, yet there didn’t seem to be much thought given to cutting the ribbing off a cashmere turtleneck and leaving it dangling like an old rubber band.” We didn’t find this the strongest or most interesting of Kors’ collections, but we didn’t find it offensive either: he simply seemed to be playing it a bit too safe.

7) 3.1 Phillip Lim

Images from Style.com - click to see entire collection.

Phillip Lim showed an easygoing, wearable collection for SS10, which had simple and stylish daywear, and more complex evening dresses, which worked well with their layers, pleated draping and hint of glitter. The shoes were again created in collaboration with Christian Louboutin, and there was some interesting jewellery which resembled screwed up gold foil.

8) Marchesa

Images from Style.com - click to see entire collection.

Celebrity favourite Georgina Chapman showed stunning dresses at Marchesa (what else?!), by which we mean truly breathtaking, sculptural, almost origami-folded creations. At times the good taste barrier may just have been breached, but this collection had a real ‘wow factor’ and will provide plenty of strong red-carpet options.

9) Alexandre Herchcovitch

Images from Style.com - click to see entire collection.

Alexandre Herchcovitch showed a vibrant, energising collection for spring/summer 2010, with rich colours, striking prints, and a fun (American) football exaggerated padded shoulder motif. The upbeat energy of this collection was hard to resist, and there truly were some well executed more wearable pieces among the madness.

10) Halston

Images from Style.com - click to see entire collection.

Marios Schwab will show his debut collection as creative director of Halston next season, so this season’s collection was a small fill-in collection, which elaborated few new ideas, but rather took inspiration from the house’s flowing, draped 1970s heritage.

11) Marc by Marc Jacobs

Images from Style.com - click to see entire collection.

Vibrant prints were order of the day at Marc Jacobs’ second line for spring/summer 2010, where the designer showed another strong collection, which playfully borrowed elements from his recent work at Louis Vuitton (the crushed satin head bows, the metallic monogrammed bags, and the bright, African inspired prints). Jacobs demonstrated real skill with prints, making even the most incongruous and potentially clashing combinations of colours look just right, and he managed to strike a good balance between design and creativity, and the need for Marc by Marc to be more ‘accessible.’

12) Threeasfour

Images from Style.com - click to see entire collection.

Threeasfour showed a small collection, with prints of Yoko Ono’s drawings, and interesting construction based on curved lines. The colour pallet was limited to black, white and duck egg blue, and although the collection didn’t say much overall, there were some very cool individual pieces.

13) Diane von Furstenburg

Images from Style.com - click to see entire collection.

The prints were bright and exotic at Diane von Furstenburg, where the designer presented her show in front of a painted Ancient Greek backdrop, and spoke of focusing on “antiquity,” and there was a pre-Raphaelite richness to how the models were presented. We enjoyed the rich and bold visual statements, and the collection provided all the pretty, wearable elements one expects from a DVF collection. For a harsher analysis, we must turn again to Cathy Horyn, who noted that “nothing looked really sharp and clear and different,” and the collection “kind of all rolled up into a big garment ball.”

14) Vera Wang

Images from Style.com - click to see entire collection.

Elegance with an edge was the vibe we were getting from Vera Wang’s spring/summer 2010 collection, which stuck to a sophisticated primarily black and grey colour pallet. Sheer tulle and chiffon fabrics added lightness, but in black – and paired with ‘bondage’ platform shoes – they hinted at something darker, melancholic even. The collection was well cut and well executed, and had a ‘poetic beauty’ to it.


What's your take on these New York S/S 2010 collections?

For Part 1, including Rodarte and Calvin Klein, click HERE.

3 comments:

  1. Great follow up to post 1.

    I don't think Kors is too much of a disaster, but safe is the right word.
    Im really liking Phillip Lim

    Diane von Furstenburg's could be confused for a bag-lady collection if you've forgotten your glasses at home :)

    ReplyDelete
  2. this is where i come for my fashion week fixes, its much easier!

    kors s'arlight.
    really like some of the Zac Posen stuff, esp the 3rd look with the orange skirt.

    also i like the vera wang looks but only the upper body, really not sure about some of the lengths of the skirts.

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